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Markov Monastery, Drachevo, Skopje
The foundation of the church is in shape of an inscribed cross in a rectangular space, with a dome rising above the central part, supported by four stone pillars. The narthex is separated from the nave by a three-part opening, and in its upper part there is a blind vault, clearly marked and visible on the roof. The church is built of hewn stone and bricks that are made in interesting patterns, especially on the altar apse, in the ten decorative niches. Toward the church, on the south side, a chapel room was added in the later period, which was used for baptism and was built of weak material. On the western side of the church, in 1830, an open porch walled with hewn stone was built, for which funds were given by Hamzi Pasha Skopski.
The interior of the church is picturesque, and the scenery is arranged in several zones. In the first zone, full-length saints are depicted, among which portraits of the founders were painted on the northern wall. However, these characters are damaged, so it is difficult to ascertain what they represent. The second zone includes the compositions that illustrate the akathist of Holy Mother of God; the other zones illustrate the life, miracles and sufferings of Christ, the twelve ``Great Holidays``, as well as scenes from the life of St. Nicholas and the patron of the church St. Demetrius.
The original iconostasis of the church is fully preserved. It consists of stone pillars with capitals that are ornamented, thus reminiscent of the stone iconostasis of the church of St. Panteleimon in Nerezi, or the church of St. George the Great Martyr in Staro Nagoricane. Some of the old icons have been preserved; however, they were copied in the 19th century.
Next to the lodgings, there is also an oven, cauldrons for roasting rakija, a well with cold water and a very old mill that has been preserved as a relic of the time when grain was ground in such a way. The name of the monastery was obtained after the popular hero King Marko. The Church of St. Demetrius was built in 1345 as evidenced by the inscription above the southern door inside the church. It was restored by King Volkashin, and fully finished and painted by his son Marko (between 1366 and 1371/72). At the beginning of the 19th century, the Macedonian revivalist and writer Kiril Pejcinovikj lived and worked in the monastery as its abbot.
INFORMATION ABOUT OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
TRAVEL RECOMMENDATIONS:
If you depart from Skopje, you will go towards Drachevo. It is about 9 kilometers from the center of Skopje to the Markova Reka Bridge in front of Drachevo. Before the Markova Reka bridge, turn right and go to the left turn towards Markova Sushica, i.e. Markov Monastery - which is approximately 9 kilometers. From the turn to Markov Monastery, you have about 2 kilometers. In total, there are approximately 21 kilometers of relatively good asphalt road from the center of Skopje to Markov Monastery.
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STORY ABOUT THE LOCATION/REGION:
Recently, the lodgings and the Monastery have been restored, and the whole place is just an active museum. It was once rich with a library of old manuscripts … There should not be a person from Skopje that has not visited this sanctuary and wonderful picnic spot. It is now a women’s monastery.
I am taking you to the monastery dedicated to St. Demetrius, better known as Markov monastery. You go towards the Drachevo settlement, and instead of left, you turn right. After about ten kilometers you will see a sign (it says Markov Monastery), here you turn left and enter the village of Markova Sushica. After a 3-minute drive, the monastery will appear in front of you in all its splendor… At the very entrance, two puppies welcome us. Brother and sister, cute as rabbits and chatterboxes as they are, licked the dry bread in no time. These are not purebred dogs trained on first-class food, but they are even sweeter, because they are natural and warm.
We enter the monastery courtyard. And here – beauty: flowers… an old oven… and the mill is preserved… a well… a key to the gates of heaven? … places to sit as if from a picture book… dormitories… It is beautifully arranged, and how can it not be when the hardworking nuns are doing their work diligently every day. To us, secular people, that combination of spiritual prayer life and physical work, all filled with silence and mercy is incomprehensible, but that’s how our monks are and that’s why we should love and respect them.
We enter the church. The 14th century meets us right at the entrance. The church was restored by Volkashin, and fully finished and painted during the time of his son, King Marko, in the period between 1366 and 1371. What we need to know is that this monastery was also active even during the Turkish slavery, and in the 19th century Kiril Pejchinovikj was its abbot. The fresco painting is brilliant – everything here is as from a movie screen, so the scenes from the life of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the wonders and sufferings of Christ, the twelve great holidays, as well as fragments of the life of Saint Nicholas are lined up in a sequence and leave us with mouths agape how it was masterfully painted in that distant 14th century. The church was built of stone, and the iconostasis is also made of that material.
We’re out again. Considering that the monastery is now home to nuns, only women who need to meet with the nuns can sleep in the lodgings. The plan is to build more lodgings that will be open to all visitors. And one more thing, the preparation of the museum within the monastery is nearing completion, in which part of the thousands of objects preserved from the rich history of Markov’s Monastery will be exhibited.
We say goodbye to the nuns who treated us with kind words and invited us to come to the Sunday liturgy. Oh, God, it’s nice to be human.
Outside the monastery’s silence, something murmurs. It’s the Markova Reka… If you’re into barbecue, a little football, ice cream and enjoyment, here are the possibilities for you. Nature is blooming in front of our eyes and there is a lot of fun in that philosophizing, but work is calling, so we march in the car and head for the Skopje jungle.
We pass through the village of Sushica, where there are many old houses, which means that apart from the weekenders, the population of residents is decreasing, but this is not news at all.
Markov Monastery. On Saturday for a walk, or on Sunday for liturgy? It’s up to you what you choose, but move – because life is outside our domestic shelter.
